Long before the arrival of Islam and its later, almost
complete, supplantation by Roman Catholicism, the Ifugao peoples of the
Cordillera mountain range of northern Luzon were at the core of the civilised
indigenous culture of the Philippines, presiding over a remarkable culture for
over two thousand years around the area of Kiangan.
The society was plutocratic in nature, having neither
king nor emperor, instead ruled by a council of elders, and enjoyed harmonious
relations with its neighbours, living in abundance and prosperity.
Their great cultural legacy is the remarkable and dramatic agricultural engineering
sculpted artfully into the landscape. While some new research controversially
contests the received wisdom on the dating on which its UNESCO World Heritage
status was awarded, that the famous rice terraces are between two to three
thousand years old, what is certainly true is that they are a remarkable
hand-made feat, whenever they were built.
There are five clusters of exemplary agricultural
workmanship in the Cordillera, which have earned the coveted status, being
those of Nagacadan, Hungduan, Mayoyao, Bangaan and Batad, all of which
represent superb craftsmanship, a brilliant understanding of irrigation and water
management, and sustainable agricultural mastery.
The terraces are carved into the steep sided valleys
following the natural contours of the landscape, utilising only stone and mud,
and artfully extracting rainwater from the upper forested hilltops. The skills
which have figured this landscape are not only functionally adroit but also as
aesthetically pleasing and beautifully blended with the natural world as any
civilisation could hope for.
The rhythms of the Ifugao agricultural lifestyle are
likewise drawn from an understanding of the natural precession of phenomena,
such as the interaction of lunar and annual solar cycles. Remarkably, pest control
is entirely organic and highly successful, utilising a sophisticated complexity
parallel planting of various herbs.
Although individual sections of terrace are privately
owned and passed on to future generations through ancestral right, the terraces
are managed and harvested collectively by the whole community, which represents
in every way a thriving, wholly authentic, harmonious society.
Traditional dwellings are also likewise intrinsically
environmentally sound, structured of wood without the use of nails.
Culturally underpinning these practices, is an ancient
animistic belief system, which stretches back beyond reckoning, invoking the
ancestors, involving chanting and the use of symbols to maintain the harmonious balance
of natural forces upon which the Ifuago society depends, rituals which themselves have also been
given UNESCO recognition as an Intangible Heritage.
The inevitable encroachment of the modern world edges
ever closer to destroying this remarkable beacon of sustainability, and the corrosive cultural onslaught began with the Spanish Christianisation of the Philippines,
which the Ifuago people, who had been peaceable throughout almost the entirety
of their history, fiercely resisted.
The area was finally brought under Spanish and later
American control, but has always managed to resist attempts to force abandonment of their
ancient lifestyle, which has survived culturally intact, even despite the region
becoming a fierce battle ground between Japanese and American forces during the Second
World War.
Nowadays, the area is governed as part of the Cordillera
Administrative Region, and although threats from mining and dam proposals still
may yet disrupt the idyllic life of the Cordillera, the real long-term danger
to their way of life is an education system inherited from the Americans which sadly does not value their culture or traditions and may seduce the young away from
their villages to work in the cities.
Despite this, many of the indigenous communities now
thankfully include traditional ethnic history, knowledge and wisdom within
educational curriculums, but these are seldom treated as the equal of the more
standard educational fare served up to young minds, and risks the loss through
gradual attrition of this amazing ecologically intelligent way of life, which
might have much to teach us, when our short-term and often destructive modern
agricultural systems fail in the future.
Tour featuring this destionation
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China photography expedition 9 days
Starting from Chengdu, this expedition explores some of the most dramatic, rugged high altitude scenery in Sichuan Province. You will travel through majority Tibetan areas to view alpine grasslands, ancient temples, villages steeped in tradition and towering snow-covered peaks. Give your shutter finger one more fling with a visit to Chengdu’s Panda Breeding and Research Centre. This China tour is sure to provide many images, both the iconic and the unexpected.